Clemens Busch

Pünderich, Mosel, Germany Clemens Busch is a man obsessively dedicated to one terroir and one grape. Since 1984 Clemens and Rita Busch have been counted among the pioneers in the development of organic viticulture on the Mosel; they have also been working biodynamically for several years. Their belief in the benefits of such practices is neither abstract nor intellectual; these are growers whose connection to their vineyards is intimate and deep, the result of long, difficult days and variable seasons. Clemens is credited with single-handedly resuscitating the reputation of his vineyard area - the Pündericher Marienburg. Clemens has enhanced that reputation by working with exceptional dedication and diligence both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Florian, the oldest son of Clemens and Rita, has recently joined them in the vineyards and cellar since completing his studies at Geisenheim Wine Institute. The Busch family lives near the banks of the picturesque Mosel River. Their wine cellar is nearby, safe on higher ground, as flooding is common in this region. Their 10 hectares of vineyards lie principally in the Pündericher Marienburg, an exceptional terroir comprised largely of stony slate. As with most pre-1971 vineyards on the Mosel (1971 was the year Germany overhauled its wine law, over simplifying it in respect to vineyard classification), the Marienburg formerly had specific names for smaller sites within what is officially now one larger vineyard. Clemens has proudly reclaimed some of those place-names and allowed each parcel, with its unique soil and microclimate, to speak with its own voice. Clemens harvests his grapes extremely late-a demanding strategy in any region, especially along the fickle Mosel-and as a result of that bold decision his wines attain tremendous levels of concentration, ripeness, and complexity. Of course, efforts in the cellar also play a crucial role. After crushing, the grapes undergo a short skin contact and ferment spontaneously in both stainless steel and in oak Fuder (foudres, or large wooden barrels), sometimes into the next year’s harvest. Clemens stirs up the wine during this extended lees contact to increase its fruitiness and richness. As a result, Clemens produces great dry and off-dry wines as well as powerfully complex, nobly sweet wines, which are considered among the finest white wines in Germany.